- June 2, 2013 at 6:20 am #79740
I am putting together a hay wagon with 6 ton running gear and am curios as to what materials you use for the deck. I am considering pressure treated, hemlock and oak. What are your experiences and recommendations. I live in New England and we see our share of wet weather. Thanks,
EdJune 3, 2013 at 6:02 am #79747
I went with hemlock on both my wagons. The wood came from my property so it cost me pennies on the dollar compared with pt. My wagons are not covered and I expect to get 10-15 years before I have to replace the wood.
It seems to be a trade-off between $ and labor. The pt will cost you a lot more (even if you purchase green hemlock), but will last longer. However, it is nice keeping your money in the local economy by using a locally-produced product. I would save your oak for poles, eveners, scoots, etc.
GeorgeJune 3, 2013 at 9:03 pm #79756
I agree with George, though sometimes when it comes to having to replace some of the wood I briefly think otherwise, but keeping the $ local is pretty important to me and when I can use my own materiels or some from a neighbor, that’s great. JayJune 3, 2013 at 9:21 pm #79757
Thanks for the replies, hemlock has been used here extensively for sheds and other projects and was all purchased locally or from the property. I think i will stick with that as it has worked well for us in the past.
EdJune 4, 2013 at 8:17 pm #79766
Ordered the materials from my neighbor, he will be cutting the trees and sawing it for me next week,
How long do you all make your wagons? This one is capable of different lengths and i am trying to s=decide if 14′ or 16′ would be better.
EdJune 5, 2013 at 4:58 am #79767
Mine are both 16′.
GeorgeJune 8, 2013 at 6:11 am #79800
You can even make them 17′ 6″. For flat ground and longer fields. This keeps you from having to stack them so high. The extra foot and a half will allow you to stand on the wagon and pull it with horses, if you have that kind of tongue. I have two wagons with a sliding tongue. Slide it in and pull it with the forecart, tractor, or baler. Slide it out, put a pin in it, evener on, and pull it with a team. I have found these tongues to be useful. Nice even for backing up to the loaded wagon. Slide the the tongue out to hook up. drop the pin in and back up until they hit. Drop the second pin and go.June 8, 2013 at 6:13 am #79801
You can even make them 17′ 6″. For flat ground and longer fields. This keeps you from having to stack them so high. The extra foot and a half will allow you to stand on the wagon and pull it with horses, if you have that kind of tongue. I have two wagons with a sliding tongue. Slide it in and pull it with the forecart, tractor, or baler. Slide it out, put a pin in it, evener on, and pull it with a team. I have found these tongues to be useful. Nice even for backing up to the loaded wagon. Slide the the tongue out to hook up. drop the pin in and back up until they hit. Drop the second pin and go.June 10, 2013 at 4:38 pm #79818
Don, I like the idea of the sliding tongue, could i just pull it with the forecart as well? I attached a couple of pics of the wagon gear all sanded and repainted. I hope to have the new deck on it by the weekend.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.June 10, 2013 at 7:56 pm #79821
I’d like to see your sliding tongue, Donn. I assume it’s square tubing? Also, if pulled with the forecart, backing up is not an option.June 13, 2013 at 9:52 am #79861
The sliding tongue is pretty easy to make and has proven very handy. I leave it short and pull it with a forecart most often. When a wagon is full we will unhook from the baler and hook to another. Now the full wagon is much easier to hook (pto cart, forecart, tractor, or truck) with the sliding tongue. Once you back up close (with in two or three feet) hop off and slide the tongue out, hook pin to cart, then back until you hit and add a second pin. Ready to go.
My sliding tongue is made of two pieces of square tubing, I think they are 2 1/2 and 2″. with 3/16″ wall thickness. the smaller one has two pieces of channel about a foot long welded above and below the end forming the hitch. When you back until the channel hits the larger square; this is where a set of holes is drilled through both tubes for a second pin, making it easy to lock after backing into it. There are also a second set of holes that can be used when the tongue is long enough for horses. A neck yoke with a ring will slip over the channel on the end; and a hammer strap and hole for a pin are in place for an evener. Make sure the tongues are long enough so you will have a good overlap when using it long. Mine got a little short at just under a foot. Two feet would be much better. My horses are also a little close to the bed of the wagon but this is just an over-site in design.June 14, 2013 at 8:32 pm #79870
Finished the hay wagon today. Now we just need weather to cut.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.June 14, 2013 at 10:46 pm #79876
She looks good and stout. Did you attach the deck to the bunk standards?June 15, 2013 at 5:42 am #79877
I fastened the deck to the bunks with ceramic coated deck screws. It will weigh much less when the wood dries 🙂
EdJune 15, 2013 at 12:32 pm #79878
I used big galvanized nails on mine cause they don’t pull out. I find that screws tend to snap when I use em on wagons – too much flex, or maybe I just beat on my wagons too much. I built a trailer deck out of pressure treated lumber once. New, green lumber. Oh gosh – so heavy! Had to tighten everything down when it dried. Is that why you went with screws?
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.